Day 3: The Big Hike
Thursday
was the day we planned to hike North Dome. We started the day early,
meaning to get out of camp ahead of the heat and crowds. The weather was
beautiful and clear when we woke up at 6:30am that morning. Sadly we didn’t end up at the trail head until 10:30am! Way to get out early…
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| So excited to get out there! |
The
trailhead was not that crowded thankfully, and we were able to park
close. The first ¾ of the trail is on a paved work road. For a second we
were worried this was how a lot of the trail would be but thankfully
hit dirt a short while after we started.
When
we read about this trail the synopsis said its mostly downhill the
whole way. We assumed getting to North Dome would be long but easy and
the way out would be a grind. Well…the whole trail was pretty much a
grind! There was a lot of up and down, and the up portions were on the
verge of steep. Mixed with the elevation it was a bit of a struggle.
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| Kristen and Heather taking a break |
However,
the trail was beautiful. It was very forested in some parts, and then
wandered through small meadows in another. Every once in a while the
trees would break and you would get a beautiful vista.
The
first view that broke was actually one that caused us a bit of alarm.
We were greeted with a view of a huge smoke cloud. We knew there was a
fire on the other side of the park but we didn’t know it was as big as
it was. The Rim Fire raged that Thursday.
When we returned to Tuolomne I heard from a through hiker that the fire
had doubled in size since the day before. It was quite alarming, but we
knew we were a safe distance away.
After
looking at the smoke cloud for a bit we moved on. The claim to fame for
this trail is that the view from North Dome is eye level with the face
of the iconic Half Dome. I’ve been at the rim of the valley before at
Glacier Point but this was different. It felt surreal to hike along the
edge of the valley that I’m usually hiking in. Every once in a while a
startling view would come in to sight and I couldn’t believe I was
experiencing this, a view only some get to see.
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| Cloud's Rest. Some say this is the best view of Half Dome |
About
3 or 4 miles in you hit an open granite area, if you walk straight
across you will meet up with the trail continuing to North Dome. You can
also take a detour to Indian rock .3 miles off the trail. We opted to
take the detour before continuing on the trail. The climb up to Indian
Rock makes you curse the mountain gods, its that bad. By that time in
the hike your legs are already mildly fatigued. This climb will burn
them out. Its also very rocky and steep. Once you get up there
though…whoa. Its worth it. First of all, Indian Rock is actually an
arch. And second, it gives you an amazing view. I highly recommend it
(but do it on the way back).
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| Indian Rock as seen from the trail |
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| That's me! |
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| Sitting in the arch, this was my view. Beautiful |
The
reason I recommend doing Indian Rock on the way back is because after
this part is when the trail becomes a bit challenging. You start to
descend out towards North Dome and just when you think you can’t go down
anymore you come out on to a large open granite area. I originally
thought this was the dome, as the description we read made it seem it
would be. Nope, this is a faux ending point. It provides a great view,
but you aren’t done yet. We had to descend more down open granite to
find the trail leading out to the real dome.
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| Me on the trail |
We
were pretty tired by this point and becoming discouraged. We found the
trail marker saying North Dome was 1.5 miles away. We could see it, but
the trail went down steeply in to a forested area and back up the dome.
This was when we had to face the dreaded decision every hiker has to
face one time or the other, do we hike on or do we decide this is the
end point? We started a little too late in the day, we had burned out
our legs and time on Indian Rock, and we still had to hike a lot of
uphill on the way back. Kristen breached the subject, and we all decided
it wouldn’t be a good idea to press on. If we did, we would be on the
trail after dark and none of us are comfortable doing that yet.
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| That's North Dome. What you can't see is that it drops down and back up |
We
decided to find a nice open spot to enjoy the view we already achieved
and enjoy out celebration beer we brought along. After all, we already
challenged ourselves getting where we were. It was more of a hike than
we have ever done.We enjoyed our
feasts of peanut butter sandwiches, electrolyte infused water, and beef
jerky and took copious amounts of pictures.
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| This view was still pretty damn good! |
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| Victory beer! |
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| Proud of myself, no lie |
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| We think this is Nevada Fall |
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| My favorite photo |
Sadly, it was time to head
back. We started the long climb up through the trees to the next open
area up by Indian Rock. This
climb is not that steep but it never evens out, you are climbing the
whole time. By this time in the hike I was suffering from an ill fitting
day pack that was pulling on my upper back. Heather went out to the
false dome, as I call it, and took more pictures. We then continued
back.
This portion of the hike
was easy, some up, some down. We came across a mama deer and 2 of her
babies. They we so cute! She let us snap a couple of pictures but then
we decided to be on our way.
You NEVER want to threaten any mother
animal by coming close to her babies, so we made sure they moved on
before we did. We made loud noises and clapped our hands until they were
further away from us.
When you
are tired and in pain (as I was, thanks to my pack) the last couple
miles of a hike can drag on. I didn’t want to go to a place of
negativity so I simply settled into the rhythm of the hike. I sang songs
to myself and enjoyed the scenery; I watched my feet take step after
step with my hiking poles. I was enjoying the experience of hiking in a
wilderness area. Every once in a while I would have to take a break to
remove some pressure from my shoulders or stretch my back, but otherwise
I was just trucking along.
I
reached a point about a mile away from the end where the paid was
radiating from between my shoulder blades, all the way up my neck and in
to my jaw. I was miserable. I started to get angry at myself for
struggling like I was, but then I realized something fantastic. My legs
we just fine. As much as I was struggling, my legs were carrying my body
up these hills, steadfast, never resisting. Your legs are the part of
your body that takes the most beating while hiking. While they were
dirty and scraped up from rocks and such, they were just fine. That
realization made me smile, I felt proud of myself. The work I had put in
up until that point was paying off. I kept pushing.
We
finally reached the trailhead. All of us were beyond tired and happy to
be back. That night our campfire pizzas were well earned.
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| The aftermath of hiking in shorts! |
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| Relaxing by the campfire |
Day 4: Day of Rest
Friday
was our designated resting day. We hung our hammocks and read in them
for hours. It was the best last day we could have given ourselves,
simply enjoying the beauty of Yosemite.
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| Heather and Kristen in their hammocks |
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| Happy girl in a hammock |
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| My view from where I layed |
When
Saturday
rolled around we were sad to end our trip, but happy to be going home
to our showers, clean beds, and clothes that did not smell like
campfire.
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| Heading out through Tioga Pass |
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| No trip to the Eastern Sierra is complete without a trip to Schat's! |